Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 5085F-1130-52B 45 mm Black Dial

The Fifty Fathoms 5085F-1130-52B keeps the 45 mm by 15.5 mm stainless-steel case of the larger dive references, but gives it a black dial and textile strap. Rated to 300 metres, it adds a flyback chronograph to the familiar underwater format. The result is a deliberately substantial instrument, with elapsed-time controls joining the dive-watch display rather than competing with it.

F185 is an automatic flyback chronograph with 40 hours of power, 37 jewels and 308 parts. Its 26.2 mm diameter and 5.48 mm height accommodate a column wheel and vertical clutch, while the calibre runs at 21,600 vph and has hacking seconds. Unlike the display-back references in this batch, its architecture remains hidden, leaving the black dial and its timing function to carry the expression.